This is a fun pattern that is a quick knit for beautiful slippers made with super-bulky weight yarn. It’s also a great pattern for learning how to knit two at a time toe up socks. This pattern is modified from the Super-Bulky-Weight Toe-Up Socks for Magic Loop by KntiFreedom.com to incorporate Liat Gat’s brilliant faux heel flap.
To understand the basics of the pattern, you might first want to knit the Practice Sock, a quick-knit baby sock that uses this same method. And you might also want to check out this lesson to learn all the skills necessary for knitting these slippers using the two at a time toe up method. Then download the pattern for the slippers and watch a video tutorial below.
The pattern is available for Small-Medium or (Medium-Large, shown in parenthesis).
The finished measurements are 7” foot circumference for Small-Medium and 8” foot circumference for Medium-Large. Remember you likely want to have some negative ease; in other words, you want the circumference of the slipper to be about an inch smaller than the circumference of your foot.
The finished length is customized to your exact foot length.
You’ll need the following materials to knit these bulky weight slippers:
- 90 yards super-bulky weight yarn. I used Malabrigo Rasta; one skein makes a pair of slippers. If working socks two at a time, you’ll need two separate balls of yarn. I suggest putting each ball into a plastic sandwich bag, and putting those inside a project bag with a pin closing the space in between the balls; see the video below for more information.
- US size 13 long (32-40-inch, your preference; I use 40”) circular needle, or size required to obtain gauge (2.5 stitches per inch in stockinette when knitting in the round.)
- Safety pin
- Tapestry needle
- Small scrap of smooth yarn in contrasting color for lifeline (optional)
- Two stitch markers (optional)
The following abbreviations and terms are used in the pattern:
- K: Knit
- P: Purl
- M1L: Make One Left (Use the left needle to pick up the bar in between the first stitch on each needle; for M1L, pick up the bar from the front and knit into the back of the stitch.)
- M1R: Make One Right (Use the left needle to pick up the bar in between the first stitch on each needle; for M1R, pick up the bar from the back and knit into the front of the stitch.)
- K2tog: Knit 2 Together
- P2tog: Purl 2 Together
- RS: Right Side
- S1: Slip 1
- SSK: To Slip Slip Knit, you slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right knitwise, then do the same with the next stitch, then insert the left needle into the front loop of both those stitches and then them together.
- Sts: Stitches
- W&T: Wrap and Turn
- To wrap and turn when knitting and on the RS, slip the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. Bring the yarn to the front, then put the stitch back on the left needle. Turn the work. Bring the yarn to the front to get ready to purl.
- To wrap and turn when purling and on the WS, slip the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. Bring the yarn to the back, then put the stitch back on the left needle. Turn the work. Bring the yarn to the back to get ready to knit.
- WS: Wrong Side
Cast On Using the Turkish Cast On
You could choose to substitute Judy’s Magic Cast On if you prefer. The instructions below are for the Turkish Cast On.
- Hold both of the needles together with the tips facing left.
- Tie a slip knot in the yarn and put on the top needle.
- Wrap the working yarn around both needles for half as many cast on stitches as needed. In this case, wrap it around 4 full times. (The yarn goes around the back of the needles from the slip knot, under the needles, back up the front, over the top to the back and straight down. That’s 1 wrap.)
- Wrap the yarn around your fingers as if to knit, securing the yarn in place. Rotate the needles so the tips are pointing to the right. The working yarn will be coming off the top toward the back.
- Slip the bottom needle out to be able to knit across. Knit across the stitches on the top needle. (4 sts on the top needle.)
- Pull the bottom needle back into work and turn so needles are pointing to the right.
- Pull out the bottom needle and get ready to knit across the top needle. The first stitch is the slip knot, which you will drop off the end and out of work; you won’t need that anymore now that the stitches are anchored in place. Knit across the stitches. (4 sts on the top needle, 8 sts total.)
- Knit across each needle again.
Pull the bottom needle into work, so all the stitches are on the actual needles, not just the cables. Both tips should be pointed to the right. Fold the work in half with the knit side facing out and purl side folded into the middle.
Place the safety pin into the right side of the fabric (the side with the needle tips.) The beginning of the round will be between the two needles on the side with the safety pin.
When you’re ready to knit, you’ll pull out the back needle, the one with the stitch that has the working yarn attached. You’ll knit in the stitches on the front needle.
Round 1: *K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K1*, repeat on the other needle (12 sts total).
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K, repeat on the other needle (16 sts total).
Round 4: Knit
Next Row for Small-Medium Size Only: K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K; K the second needle without increases (10 sts on first needle, 8 sts on second needle, 18 sts total).
Next Row for Medium-Large Size Only: Repeat Round 3 once more (20 sts total).
Knit in the round until slipper reaches the front of your ankle. You can try on the slipper and pull it up as snug as you like your socks, then flex your foot. Once the knitting reaches your ankle, you’re ready to go to the Gusset. End with the safety pin on the side with both needle tips.
- Needle 1 ( this will be the heel needle): K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K1.
- Needle 2 (instep needle): Knit.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 until your slipper has 26 (28) sts – 18 sts on heel needle and 8 (10) sts on the instep needle. You may want to add a stitch marker between needles 1 and 2 for each sock to make sure the stitches for the two needles are staying separated.
You may want to add a lifeline to the heel needle (for both socks) after finishing the gusset.
You will begin working back and forth across heel needle only, instead of knitting in the round; ignore the instep needle for now.
Row 1: K12, W&T.
Row 2: P6, W&T.
Row 3: K until stitch right before wrapped stitch (2 sts before the gap), W&T.
Row 4: P to stitch right before wrapped stitch (2 sts before the gap), W&T.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 2 unwrapped stitches remain between the wrapped stitches.
Next row: K across row, picking up and knitting the wraps together with the wrapped stitches as you come to them. Stop when you have picked up and disguised the last wrap on the knit side. Turn.
Next row: Sl 1, P across row, picking up and purling the wraps with the wrapped stitches as you come to them. Stop when you’ve picked up and disguised the last wrap on the purl side.
5 sts remain on the left-hand needle with the wrong side facing you. Turn. 18 total heel sts.
Work Faux Heel Flap
Work back and forth across the next 7 rows to create an 8-stitch-wide “heel flap” while simultaneously decreasing the number of stitches on the heel needle.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, K until 1 stitch remains before a visible gap in stitches. SSK. Turn.
Row 1 (WS): S1, P until 1 stitch remains before a visible gap in the stitches. P2Tog. Turn
Repeat rows 1-2 for 8 rows until 1 stitch remains on left hand needle after completing a RS row. Do not turn. K remaining stitch on heel needle. The last gap will be closed on the right hand side in the next section. 11 sts remain on heel needle.
If you are working two socks at a time, repeat the Turn Heel and Work Faux Heel Flap on the second sock now.
Remove the lifeline if you used one.
Resume knitting in the round.
Knit across instep.
Next round: K1, K2Tog (to close the last gap between sts), K to end of round (10 sts remain on heel needle).
Knit in the round for 5 to 8 rounds, depending on how long you want the cuff to be and how much yarn you have.
Rounds 1-4: *K1, P1*, repeat to end of the round.
Bind off using Jenny’s stretchy bind-off.
Use a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.
Download a PDF of the Pattern
The following is a PDF of the pattern for the Bulky Weight Slippers:
Knit Along with this Video Tutorial
Grab your supplies and knit along with this two-part video tutorial that demonstrates every step of how to knit these two at a time toe up slippers:
Want to Try More Socks?
You might also like the following lesson on knitting two socks at a time, or check out the link below for some more sock patterns using this same method for socks knit with worsted weight and fingering weight yarn:
6 thoughts on “Bulky Weight Slippers Pattern”
Thank you for posting this; very interesting, clear and helpful. I look forward to trying it out!
Thanks! I hope it turns out great for you!
Great little pattern. Thank you very much for sharing!
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
What yarn did you use for the socks on the title photo? The blueish purplish one?
Hi, it’s Malabrigo Rasta Whales Road. 🙂