Baby Sock Pattern (Good for a Practice Sock)

This is a great sock pattern to learn how to knit toe up socks. This same method can be used to knit adult socks. This pattern is modified significantly from the Aran-Weight 2-Hour Toe Up Baby Socks for Magic Loop by KntiFreedom.com to make it for worsted weight yarn and to incorporate Liat Gat’s brilliant faux heel flap. To knit these for babies instead of just for practice, they make a pair of newborn socks. 

This sock is worked in the round from the toe up, and the instructions are for magic loop with one long circular needle. Download the pattern and watch a video tutorial below. You might also want to check out this lesson to learn all the skills necessary for knitting this baby sock.

Materials

You will need the following materials to knit a practice sock or pair of baby socks:

  • 60 yards medium weight yarn; I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice.
  • US size 6 long (32-40-inch, your preference; I use 40”) circular needle or size required to obtain gauge; gauge is 5 stitches per inch in stockinette when knitting in the round, although exact gauge is not important if just knitting a practice sock.
  • Safety pin
  • Ruler
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Abbreviation/Terms

The following abbreviations and terms are used in the pattern:

  • K: Knit
  • P: Purl
  • M1L: Make One Left (Use the left needle to pick up the bar in between the first stitch on each needle; for M1L, pick up the bar from the front and knit into the back of the stitch.)
  • M1R: Make One Right (Use the left needle to pick up the bar in between the first stitch on each needle; for M1R, pick up the bar from the back and knit into the front of the stitch.)
  • K2tog: Knit 2 Together
  • P2tog: Purl 2 Together
  • RS: Right Side
  • S1: Slip 1
  • SSK: To Slip Slip Knit, you slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right knitwise, then do the same with the next stitch, then insert the left needle into the front loop of both those stitches and then them together.
  • Sts: Stitches 
  • W&T: Wrap and Turn 
    • To make a wrap and turn when knitting and on the RS, slip the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. Bring the yarn to the front, then put the stitch back on the left needle. turn the work. Bring the yarn to the front to get ready to purl.
    • To make a wrap and turn when purling and on the WR, slip the first stitch on the left needle to the right needle, purlwise. Bring the yarn to the back, then put the stitch back on the left needle. Turn the work. Bring the yarn to the back to get ready to knit.
  • WS: Wrong Side 

Instructions

Cast On Using the Turkish Cast On

You could choose to substitute Judy’s Magic Cast On if you prefer.  The instructions below are for the Turkish Cast On.

  • Hold both of the needles together with the tips facing left.
  • Tie a slip knot in the yarn and put on the top needle.
  • Wrap the working yarn around both needles for half as many cast on stitches as needed.  In this case, wrap it around 4 full times. (The yarn goes around the back of the needles from the slip knot, under the needles, back up the front, over the top to the back and straight down. That’s 1 wrap.)
  • Wrap the yarn around your fingers as if to knit, securing the yarn in place. Rotate the needles so the tips are pointing to the right. The working yarn will be coming off the top toward the back.
  • Slip the bottom needle out to be able to knit across. Knit across the stitches on the top needle. (4 sts on the top needle.)
  • Pull the bottom needle back into work and turn so needles are pointing to the right.  
  • Pull out the bottom needle and get ready to knit across the top needle.  The first stitch is the slip knot, which you will drop off the end and out of work; you won’t need that anymore now that the stitches are anchored in place. Knit across the stitches. (4 sts on the top needle, 8 sts total.)
  • Knit across each needle again. 

Pull the bottom needle into work, so all the stitches are on the actual needles, not just the cables. Both tips should be pointed to the right. Fold the work in half with the knit side facing out and purl side folded into the middle. 

Place the safety pin into the right side of the fabric (the side with the needle tips.) The beginning of the round will be between the two needles on the side with the safety pin.

When you’re ready to knit, you’ll pull out the back needle, the one with the stitch that has the working yarn attached. You’ll knit in the stitches on the front needle. 

Toe

Round 1: *K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K1*, repeat on the other needle (12 sts total).

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K, repeat on the other needle (16 sts total).

Foot

Knit in the round until sock measures 2 inches from cast on edge. End with the safety pin on the side with both needle tips. 

Gusset

Round 1: 

  • Needle 1 ( this will be the heel needle): K1, M1R, K until there is one stitch left on the first needle, M1L, K1(10 sts)
  • Needle 2 (instep needle): Knit (8 sts)

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 three more times until the heel needle contains 16 sts.

I suggest adding a lifeline here, especially if this is your first sock with this method. You only need to put it through the stitches on the heel needle.

Turn Heel

You will begin working back and forth across heel needle only, instead of knitting in the round; ignore the instep needle for now. 

Row 1: K10, W&T.

Row 2: P4, W&T.

Row 3: K until stitch right before wrapped stitch (2 sts before the gap), W&T.

Row 4: P to stitch right before wrapped stitch (2 sts before the gap), W&T.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until 2 unwrapped stitches remain between the wrapped stitches. 

Next row: K across row, picking up and knitting the wraps together with the wrapped stitches as you come to them. Stop when you have picked up and disguised the last wrap on the knit side.  Turn.

Next row: Sl 1, P across row, picking up and purling the wraps with the wrapped stitches as you come to them.  Stop when you’ve picked up and disguised the last wrap on the purl side. 

5 sts remain on the left-hand needle with the wrong side facing you. Turn. 16 total heel sts. 

Work Faux Heel Flap

Work back and forth across the next 5 rows to create a 7-stitch-wide “heel flap” while simultaneously decreasing the number of stitches on the heel needle.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, K until 1 stitch remains before a visible gap in stitches. SSK. Turn.

Row 1 (WS): S1, P until 1 stitch remains before a visible gap in the stitches. P2Tog. Turn

Repeat rows 1-2 for 8 rows until 1 stitch remains on left hand needle after completing a RS row. 9 sts remain on heel needle. Do not turn. K remaining stitch on heel needle. The last gap will be closed on the right hand side in the next section. 

If you are working two socks at a time, repeat the Turn Heel and Work Faux Heel Flap on the second sock now.

Finish Heel

Remove the lifeline if you used one.  Resume knitting in the round. 

Knit across instep. 

Next round: K1, K2Tog (to close the last gap between sts), K to end of round (8 sts remain on heel needle, 16 sts total).

Leg

Knit in the round for 1 inch. To help measure, move the safety pin into the first stitch on the first row. 

Cuff

Next round: *K1, P1*, repeat to end of the round.  Continue working in 1 x 1 rib until ribbed section of cuff measures 1.5 inches.

Bind Off

Bind off using Jenny’s stretchy bind-off. 

Remove lifeline, if used. 

Use a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Download a PDF of the Pattern

The following is a PDF of the pattern for the baby sock / practice sock:

Knit Along with this Video Tutorial

Grab your supplies and knit along with this two-part video tutorial that demonstrates every step of how to knit this baby sock or practice sock pattern:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Want to Try More Socks?

You might also like the following lesson on knitting two socks at a time, or check out the link below for some more sock patterns using this same method for socks knit with worsted weight and fingering weight yarn.

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